Last time, we checked out Eucla and the settlements between Eucla and Caiguna.
The 90 Mile Straight
Caiguna is at the eastern end of the 90 Mile Straight… 146.6km of arrow-straight road. Balladonia’s just west of the western end.
It’s the longest stretch of straight road in Australia and one of the longest in the world. These facts give you something to look forward to as you start your drive along this straight. But after a while, reality sets in and monotony takes over.
It’s almost like Caiguna was established just to give people somewhere to pull over and recover from holding the steering wheel dead straight for 146km.
Fuel Stops
So where you can get fuel on the Nullarbor? Our Interactive Map of fuel stops across the Nullarbor will give you all the info you need.
Actually, this is not far from the truth. Caiguna was established in 1962 to provide facilities for people driving to and from the Commonwealth Games in Perth.
We camped along the 90 Mile Straight, in behind a rest area. A maze of tracks run in behind the rest area on both sides of the road, allowing you get well away from the highway.
The thin trees provide a sliver of shade, with the ever-present saltbush dotted all around. A few other travellers stopped here as well, obviously defeated by the monotony of the 90 Mile Straight.
We love these camp spots.
Instead of viewing the landscape through the windscreen, you get a chance to experience it firsthand. The occasional bird, the harshness of this massive limestone plain, meeting other travellers… you only have these experiences when you stop and look around.
Balladonia – The Sky Is Falling!
The settlement of Balladonia is 181km and just a few gentle curves west of Caiguna. You’ve passed the western end of the 90 Mile Straight. Nearby Balladonia Station was established in the 1870s as a sheep station.
Balladonia settlement was another link in the Overland Telegraph line. Today, travellers enjoy welcome break from their long journey in a modern roadhouse and motel.
By the time you reach Balladonia, the small trees have grown substantially and you’re into quite thickly timbered country. Real trees!
From here on, you’re in the Great Western Woodlands. These woodlands cover around 16 million hectares, forming the largest intact Mediterranean woodlands in the world.
Balladonia’s claim to fame is its connection to Skylab.
For those too young to remember, Skylab was the United States’ first orbiting space station. It orbited the Earth from 1973 to 1979. Skylab sustained damage at initial launch, which was patched up by the first group of astronauts to visit Skylab. However, over time Skylab’s orbit had been affected and eventually it re-entered the Earth’s atmosphere.
Skylab’s re-entry made worldwide news at the time. Of course the tabloids went crazy, with predictions of mass wipeouts in major cities. NASA frantically tried to steer it away from populated areas and and it looked like Skylab would fall to Earth in South Africa.
On 11th July, 1979 Skylab came back to Earth in Western Australia, not South Africa as forecast. Balladonia was one of the places showered with space debris, prompting President Jimmy Carter to apologise for the mess!
Balladonia has a camping area, small motel and a Roadhouse. From here on, the road has some quite decent hills. You’re heading into Fraser Range.
Fraser Range Station – Trees Again!
East of Balladonia, you’ll pass through the granite hills of Fraser Range.
You’re well into the trees now, surrounded by the biggest hardwood eucalyptus forest in the world. This forest contains over 20% of Australia’s native plant species and is a critically important habitat for threatened species of both plants and animals.
It’s the oldest eucalypt forest in the world, sitting on top of Country formed between 2.4 and 3.7 billion years ago.
The salmon gums are beautiful. Their deep salmon-coloured trucks and bright green leaves almost look fake. They shine like they’ve been polished from top to toe.
Fraser Range Station used to be open for camping and accommodation. It was an ideal spot to rest your weary body. However, it closed due to the Covid pandemic.
They do plan to re-open, but haven’t set a date at this stage. Go here to check for the latest on opening dates for Fraser Range Station.
You’re now a stone’s throw – just 105km – from Norseman, the unofficial end of the Nullarbor.
Norseman – North Or South?
Norseman is the unofficial end of your Nullarbor journey. Congratulations, you made it!
Now you have a choice to make – North or South? Turn south… access to South-West WA, Esperance, Albany, the giant Karri and Tingle forests. Turn North… access to the Goldfields, Perth and the rest of Western Australia. The choice is yours!
Next time: Discover all the other things you can do along the Nullarbor.
This section of the Nullarbor trip is on Mirning, Ngatjumay, and Malpa Country.
Looking for more information on the Nullarbor? Then go here.
Get your BONUS Guide:
Download “Nullarbor East to West – A Traveller’s Guide”
…at our FREE RESOURCES Page!
Any questions or comments? Go to the Comments below or join us on Pinterest, Facebook or YouTube.
Any errors or omissions are mine alone.